Hmmm tough call… After the problems we had, I’d say you’d want to go for specific super motard forks to avoid any problems with brake caliper spacing etc.

Probably forks from the 640 super motard would be best.

Not sure how the steering stem etc would work on the Funduro though as it’s a different frame to Rich’s bike that you will see in our videos.

Also need to be aware that with 17″ / 17″ combo the bike may be a bit twitchy when cornering…

Sound like you may be wanting to just bolt something on… which is not the case. Whatever forks you use, there will be some modification required.

In your case I can’t see why you would not be able to make super moto forks fit your bike, as long as you are prepared to have the centre post of the yokes modified to accept BMW bearings etc, make some sort of steering lock arrangement etc.

I think Stoner’s dominance has obscured the intensity of this season. Apart from the awful price paid by Simoncelli, we’ve got Bautista: broken femur. Pedrosa: smashed collarbone. Crutchlow and Edwards: ditto. Hopkins: finger buggered. Lorenzo: finger torn in half. Spies: bashed about and too bruised to race. Whole Yamaha factory squad off the grid for 2 races. Plenty more things I have forgotten. People go on about it being “boring” racing just because one bloke tends to win a lot of the time, but in reality this has been a dramatic season. I will never forget it.

Indeed a terrible loss.

Cheers

Follow my progress on a complete rebuild of my 1990 ZXR250 (20,000 rrpm screamer) here:

http://zxr250.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=photogallery&action=display&thread=123

I have currently stripped her down and am now in the process of following some of your tips and tricks, love it!!!

Thanks again guys.

I have a 50ltr 2.5hp 116psi compressor, will this do the trick Waz? I am currently making a blast cabinet with the idea you guys had but with a transparent 160ltr container (plastic box) so the ligh comes in all around.

I also wanted to know the dimensions of the crate that Trent used to make his sandblaster cabinet as it does look quite large and the cost of one of those on ebay is almost the same as buying a prefab blast cabinet.

I will send a link for youtube once I have done it all and tested this principle.

Thanks guys.

P.S. I actually fund you guys through the aircooltech website and have had a right laugh with you guys, keep it up!!

I have two Elefants now: my 750 and a 900IE. I don’t think I’ll ever get either of them looking that good, but I’ll keep working on it!

http://www.bikeexif.com/cagiva

Good point. When we made this video, I was using Trent’s air compressor which is indeed a fairly big belt-drive unit. Trent has since loaned me his small direct-drive compressor to use at my house and you’re right – the results are not as good. Though there may be other variables, like the soda in the bucket packing down over time.

Some people say your average blasting cabinet is not directly compatible with soda blasting but a friend tried it in his with some Holley carburettors and it worked fine.

If you start looking at the specs he recommends you find yourself into a high end, high priced air unit. If you have that, a blasting cabinet is relatively cheap from Harbor Freight or finding one used. Then you can contain the medium and reuse it or at least keep your area clean.

I would love to hear what people are using for their air compressors and the results. Cheers.

i just greased it up n worked great real easy to get to

You should watch Part 1 of the video. It shows how he removes the swingarm bearings. Doesn’t show how he removes the other bearings, though, but try browsing through his archive.

Best!

other then that just watching the weather and been laid up with the damn flu for a couple of weeks.

Tubeless tyres are very often fitted on dual-sport bikes with a tube inside. My Elefant being one example. Yes, they are definitely a tighter fit because the bead of the tyre itself has to seal the air inside. Glad to hear you got it sorted!

Waz, writing from Ducati valve shim hell

somthing else you can use to remove grease and grime is poly urethane foam dust.
It totaly cleans of the grease and grime, and leaves your paint un damaged. Wil work on those brake calipers.
You should be able to get the foam from any surfboard shapper.

Regards,

Klipvis

That is why they sell ARMEX BLAST MEDIA FOR GUYS LIKE US>
NICE WORK ON THE MINI BLASTER

Has anyone tried this mini-blaster with other blasting media (coal slag, glass etc) ?

What size compressor did they use in the video…will it work with a small consumer compressor that holds just a few liters in the tank ?

Finally,a question for Jim Abbott of Tuscon…when you say, “If you tape behind the slit so that air can also be sucked in at that location you will find the performance jumps somewhat won’t that close off the air supply.” Jim, won’t this stop air from being sucked in at this location? please claify, and keep cool in that AZ sun. Zup

Baz

For outside work, you might just chuck it up, and polish with a bit of sandpaper

If you want to learn ALL sorts tricks, go to our news stand and start reading Model Engineer. GB is probably the "Mother Country" to the hobby of Home Shop work – Geo Thomas wrote some great books on how to do all sorts of operations on the lathe/mill, often making the tools yourself. Unfortunately for those of us 'over here', the books are quite expensive by the time you ship them

All I can say is "try it", particularly when you have some spare time, and on some non critical pieces first

The main problem I see, though, is how to dress back the steel once you’ve quenched it so that you get the right bearing clearance and a good enough surface for a bearing. As I understand it, when you harden steel in this way you are forcing carbon into the surface molecules and slightly enlarging the piece, so you need some way to grind it back to the size you require, and to polish it up to a good enough surface for bearings to run on. This seems to me the most technical part of the operation.

Interested to hear more from you.

Here in the US, we have a steel called 1144 Stressproof – I'm NOT sure what the equivilent is over there, but it machines VERY well, does NOT warp when milled (hence the 'stressproof' name), and hardens like a dream – heat it up red hot (to the point a magnet doesn't stick – there is a trick for you – when carbon steels are heated to the point a magnet doesn't stick, they are above the critical temp), and plunge into warm oil, then temper as needed

The "drill rod" (O-1, W-1 over here) steels also harden very easily, but are a bunch harder to machine

Just trying to bring out other options for a small shop when heat treating MIGHT be necessary (BTW, O-1 etc will get hard enough to make cutters out of, if you need to)

A note of caution, if you’re thinking of soda blasting something that’s anodised, do make sure it’s actually anodised and not painted. For example the gold Brembo calipers on my bike and many others look anodised but it’s actually paint.

Yes I think you could definitely recapture and reuse the soda. The key is to keep moisture out. I think we’ll be refining this apparatus – I’m soon to test it out on a Ducati side case that’s got badly flaked paint.

Fantastic job with the video clips… GREAT Job..

Regards
Siva
from Canberra, Australia

i did my steering head bearings on my honda xlr bike after watching your video it helped me out cheers mitch

If that’s all in order then I would take the wheel out of the forks, insert the axle. Hold each end of the axle and get a helper to spin the wheel. If it turns smoothly then you know the bearings and axle are okay. If it doesn’t then either one or both of the bearings may be pushed in too far or one might be defective. I was always told that knocking a bearing out by its ‘inner’ turns it into junk.
Did you put the wheel spacers back in the right sides? It’s usually only possible to put them in one way but have a look. Are you sure the wheel is all the way off the surface when you’re spinning it? I know, dumb question but it looks like it’s rubbing the deck. What the hell is that clicking sound? I strongly suspect a problem with the speedo drive unit.

I know Trent makes this stuff look easy, but I’m hoping with a little patients and a little luck it will work out.

Thanks guys. Keep up the great work!

Fork swap is coming next.

Remove BOTH seals when checking because the grease might only have been injected on one side when it was assembled (it will be distributed when the bearing turns). If you only remove one seal it might look like the bearing is empty when it’s not.

I can’t see the harm in repacking an old bearings as long as you clean out the old grease first so you’re not over-packing it. Then make sure any solvent you’ve used to clean out the old grease is gone before putting the new grease in. I think WD-40 is good for cleaning old grease out because it will wash away the grease but is not a degreaser as such.

What is the perceived wisdom on leaving new bearings as they come from the factory, or as in the video packing them (or 1/3 packing them) with fresh grease?

Also if you have existing bearings that don’t appear to have a problem, is it a good idea to remove the seal and pack with fresh grease every few years? Or as above, is it best just to leave alone???

This is what I found helped me, in addition to what the video showed and other guys comments already on here -

To get the bearing cups out of the frames headstock, clean out all the old grease, then spray some WD40 (or similar) inbetween the frame and the cups, then leave for 20 mins. Cut a length of the 4″ x 2″ wood to the correct length and put under the bottom of the headstock and the ground (this will give you a firm base to work against). Note how far in the bearings fit in the frame (2-3mm on my bike).
Use a hair dryer (safe heat) to heat up the outside of the headstock around the point of the cup you’re going to take out (this should slightly expand the headstock).
Then place the metal rod/bar inside the headstock so it touches the lip of the bottom cup (as per video), however rather than keeping it in line with the frame, lean it across so it’s resting on the top bearing cup on its opposite side. Now lean on the bar slightly so it forces it to push against the headstock at the point just above the bottom cup (this should stop it slipping off so easily). Now whilst still applying pressure on the bar as above, hit the bar with your heavy hammer. If you get a slight ringing it hasn’t moved, if you get a duller noise it has moved. Once it’s moving hit it at various places around the cup to get it to come out straight, otherwise you may damage the cups seat in the headstock.
Repeat for the top cup.

I found that using a longer rod on the bearings seemed to work better than a shorter length, not sure why, it just did

Keep up the superb work, Rob

is there a speedo drive that could be offering resistance?

if you take the wheel out, put the axle through, rest the axle ends on say two panniers and spin the wheel how does it look?

I don’t know what the wheel spun like before, never really tested. I bought second hand wheels and reused the spacers and other parts from original wheels and just added new wheel bearings and seals. I did not repack the bearings with more grease, I just left them as was. I followed your video’s demonstration and knocked bearings in with the right size socket and both went in straight. However, I did have to knock the first wheel bearing back out again before second bearing was fitted because I fitted the parts wrong way round first time. This meant having to use a drift to knock the bearing out on from it’s inner. I had a good look at the bearing for any signs of damage and it all looked ok and spun freely in my finger so I reused it again. I refitted with the correct parts in the right order and everything lined up straight as far as I could tell. My only concern was that the bearings may have been knocked in too hard and pressed too tight against the spacer? I then completed putting everything together for you to see via the youtube videos.

The second video was without the calipers fitted and axle torqued up correctly. The first video wasn’t. I have posted this concern on the RD website and the feedback I got from one at least is that it looked ok for new bearings and seals fitted and should hopefully wear in. As I have no experience of this I don’t know what is true. What I do know is that my BMW GS1200 front wheel is alittle tight also so other than that I don’t really know?

Hmmm… That seems way too tight to me – Did you remove both calipers? It sounds like you still have something rubbing when you spin the wheel (sounds like a disc rubbing on brake pads)

With new bearings and no calipers, I would expect the wheel to spin freely with just a small amount of force.

Is the video taken with the axle done up tight? If so, loosen it and try spinning the wheel again – there could be a problem with one of the spacers that’s causing the bearings to bind up when you tighten the axle.

Do you know if the wheel spun freely before you changed the bearings / repaired the forks etc? I’m trying to figure out if it’s something you’ve done or if there was a problem all along that you’ve discovered.

Cheers. Paul

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SUrtjyt2xdg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDlHZCoN_Gc

The only bike I’ve heard of with front wheel bearing spacer problems is the KTM 950 Super Enduro – the spacer on some of those bikes is too short which causes the bearings to be bind up when the axle is tightened – Spinning the wheel as described above is the way to detect that problem.

It can be a bit daunting working on your bike for the first time, but keep focused, use the right tool for the job and you can’t go too far wrong.

Just make sure you didn’t a) drive against the inner bearing diameter when installing them, thereby causing damage, or b) over-pack the bearing with grease (no more than 1/3 full is one recommendation) c) badly misalign the inner spacer so it’s rubbing on the bearing seal (you can push the axle through to help line things up).

I’d suggest installing your wheel on the bike with the weight off it and the brakes out of the way so they’re not dragging on the disc. Then see how freely the wheel spins.

It shouldn’t really be possible to ‘over-drive’ the bearing so that it jams because of the spacer – the spacer will be the right width so that it’s held in place by the bearing inners when the bearings are seated in the hub.

Hope that helps. If you’re really unsure about it or feel it might not be safe then do see a mechanic about it.

Great website and video tutorials by the way!

Just lay a piece of cardboard or something where the sparks land next time!

Another thing, with that setup you should really be running the lathe spindle in reverse (if you have it!) so the work and the grinding wheel or disc are moving in opposite directions where they meet, saves breaking (quite so many) wheels )

Dave H.
(The engineer formerly known as Homeless)

The stem is from a 640 Supermoto.

Niel is busy planning a rideout in North Wales, should be able to get this in before Xmas. Should be good. Will keep you updated.

Im out on the trials big this afternoon then off to the world indoor enduro championships in Sheffield. Watching not competing! Should be good.

Any more events similar to the Salisbury one, looks great.

Take it easy

Ash

If the bearings are too loose, you'll get a clunk sound or feel when you brake or hit a bump.
If the bike has a main stand, get it up on that then grab the bottoms of the forks – With the wheel facing forward, pull and push the forks back and forth – if the bearings are too loose, you should feel some movement.
If you don't have a mainstand, try to prop the bike so the front wheel is off the ground.

Perhaps you should loosen the bearings off again, then use the technique above to feel the "clunk" I mentioned – you can then gradually tighten the bearings until the clunk disappears.
The nut / collar used for adjusting the bearings won't need much tweaking to tighten the bearings – try 1/8 of a turn at a time till you get the feel for it…
It should just be "nipped up" when the bearings are at the right tension.

When the clunk / movement has disappeared, you should be able to move the handlebars smoothly from side to side with the only resistance coming from the cables etc as they flex.

Note that you'll also need to loosen the fork clamps on the top clamp when you adjust the bearings – if you don't you'll find that the bearings may loosen up again after a while.

Cheers
Trent

Pete – the TDM is finally being retired. 250 000 kms, a ride half way around the world and silly amounts of wheelies have taken their toll.

I’ve bought a 900 Elefant as a replacement – what a great toy !!!

The ultimate urban holigan weapon. Why slow down to go around round-abouts when you can go straight over the top…

Your videos rock! Keep up the great work…

Keep up the good work

* The forks are from a regular 950 Adventure – not the S model.

* The yokes are from the same bike as the forks, BUT …

* The steering stem (sometimes called the steering post) is from a KTM Supermoto. It is a much more suitable length for the BMW steering head. We maybe could have used the Adventure steering stem and got it shortened and re-threaded – but we already had the Supermoto stem machined to take the BMW bearings when we were thinking of fitting Supermoto forks. So we had the Adventure stem pressed out and replaced with the Supermoto stem.

I am Dimitris from Greece.

Would you like to tell me about the forks and the steering column system?

Are the forks 43mm steering column system and from the 950ktm ADV or from 950ktm ADV S?

I am waiting for your news.

Many regards,

Dimitris

Great video

-John

great vid maybe see you all next year – just looking at investing in laminator – not a bad idea for holes tho!

jonnybgood

team charlies angels

Unfortunately we don't have a diagram – I would take the parts diagram picture with a pinch of salt – they are not really accurate enough as a reassembly diagram. A service manual would be a better option.

We happen to have an AT (RD04) in the garage at the moment, so I had a quick look at the wheel.
The L/H side (Chain side) has a "Cross 2" pattern and the R/H side has a "Cross 1" pattern – Cross 1 is a bit strange for a bike of that size…

To check the pattern, start at the head of a spoke and count how many other spokes it "crosses" on the way to the rim.

The R/H side heads are very close and kinda cross each other, but don't count that – only count the spokes that actually cross.

It sounds like you may be either using the wrong pattern (most likely if the new spokes are the same as the old ones), or have the wrong length spokes in the wrong holes.

Insert all the inside spokes first and mate them with the correct nipples – Hold a nipple in the hole in the rim and it should point straight at the spoke it needs to mate with – If the wrong length spoke is in the wrong hole or you're using the wrong pattern, you'll get exactly the problem you've described.
You can then insert the outer spokes while paying attention to the "cross" pattern and match up the rest of the nipples.

If you still end up with long and short spokes when the offset is approx correct, try swapping them around if it's possible.

Hope that helps…

Does anyone have the CORRECT spoke lacing diagram or locations so that I can get on with my little project, Please?

Thanks in advance from a cranky and frustrated old kodger who should be able to figure this simple task but for reasons unknown continues to suffer from brain farts or Old Timers Disease.
Billy Bob Hamilton
The Bunkmuffin (so my girlfriend calls me)

The forks I have are the Adventure S forks from a 2005 bike if I remember correctly. I had an issue with the handling initially but had not looked at my sags in detail. I got the geometry sorted out by pushing the forks up through the triple clamps by 35mm measured from the top of the fork to the top of the clamp. With the preload I tweeked the sags but I still get bottoming of the forks. From rough calculations for myself (around 105kg’s with gear) I feel that I need to go to a spring stiffness of around 5.6N/mm maybe even stiffer. Bear in mind that the bike the forks came from is designed for a 75Kg rider.

What you could do to avoid buying new spring is to cut the stock ones and use spacers. This is debated to death on Orange crush over on Advrider. When I make measurements I will relay the info.

To show the extent of the bottoming I made a video. The jump is not high but the forks went all the way down. Thicker oil will reduce the tendency to bottom but you really need the stiffness of the spring itself.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fc9P_ZDvzqg

So Waz, the forks are conparable.

I briefly was chatting to Paul the mechanic at Bracken and his only comment was the spring rate might need adjustment.

It is something we will have to investigate further once we have done some field tests!

That’s interesting. Picture is blurry but it looks to me like your forks could be from a single-cylinder Adventure, not a 950 like Rich’s conversion uses. Am I correct?

So far we’d surmised that the 950 weight would make the forks pretty good for the F650 or even a little on the firm side – but balanced out by the wet weight of long-range tanks.

Either way we’ll be interested to see how Richard’s bike performs and obviously he’ll be taking it slowly at first …

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_u0HCgAo06LU/Sj8mpyBbzdI/AAAAAAAACvY/hQlXJYaXGrE/s800/P6210033.JPG

I have spoken to Rich in the past about the KTM Adv setup in the past.

I have quick pointer. I took my bike to a little play area over the weekend. The bike was using the full travel on the jumps. Basicly I was bottoming out all the time. In fact I also blew a fork seal. Doing some research I have found that the stock spring rate of the ADV is pretty low. You will need to increase this. On ADVrider they are quoteing some numbers in the yamaha conversion thread you might want to have a look at.

All the best!

G

We are shortly going to put up the next episode on the project. We are just awaiting some lower fork guards in order to deal with the front brake cable management and then the bike should be on the road. We are taking it to the Horions Unlimited Mountain Madness event in July and hopefully we will give it a good test nd report back on the effect of the upgrade. Will it make a difference to stability, off roading, handling etc….who knows but here’s hoping!!

Richard

Thanks for another episode! Got an F650 Dakar myself and was interested to see this episode. Question now: is there a REAL difference for “upside down” fork (not only on a f650, but in general). At times, the front on my f650 feels a bit wabbly… does an upside-down fork help?

Keep it going, guys! Fantastic show!
Bjorn

I put KTM forks to my DR650 and ran into all the same issues as you. Wish I would have known about your project, then I could have saved you some grief.

Not sure where you are at right now, but any more questions just ask. I have 6 different KTM forks and brake setups here so I humbly consider myself a (wanna) expert. Learned it all the hard way!”

Cheers,
Lukas

As well as what Richard’s mentioned, fitting and adjusting the top steering head bearing on an F650 is insanely complicated – on the KTM yokes it is simplicity itself (relatively speaking).

As far as weight savings go: the BMW yokes alone weigh a ton!

Thanks for your comments. At the time we started looking around for forks (which was some time ago now) the F800 was just coming to market and we didn’t know of any being broken. Conceptually there is nothing to stop someone using the F800 front end (45mm USD).

We took our lead off what Touratech had done on the bikes prepared for the real Dakar rally. The Touratech conversion for the bike was based on 43mm WP forks.

On the second hand market they seem primarily to come from Supermoto 620s and the 640 adventurers. But as you can see from the video the fittings for the brake calipers can make life challenging. At some point, KTM moved up to 48mm WP forks on the 640 adventurers and they came as standard on the 950s. Looking at the weight of the BMW versus the 640 adventurer and 950 adventurer (and bearing in mind we have the Touratech big tanks for this bike) we figured it was closer in weight to the 950, so those were the forks we went for.

We know of another UK guy who has used similar forks off the KTM 950S which have even greater travel, but we understand he had some handling issues and needed to push the forks through the clamps a bit – not sure of the details.

The main reason for doing this … kind of lost in the mists of time. It seemed a good idea at the time – we’ll see if it proves to be the case. We are also running at 18-inch rear and have a WP rear shock which we think will balance out the changes we are making.

Yep we hope to be at the HUMM – Dakar included.

Cheers,
Richard.

Very interesting this is, especially being a Dakar owner too… I guess the main reason you are doing this project is for the whole unsprung balance reduction handling thing…? Just wondering why specifically you’ve chosen the KTM front end rather than say for instance the F800 GS front end – is there something about the KTM kit other than perhaps second hand availability and price that I am not aware of…?

Looking forward to seeing the next part in the series… In fact looking forward to seeing the motorcycle sometime – will it be going to this year’s HUMM?

When are we going to see some more Fant spannering. The Progs have gotten me out of a few holes over the past few months so keep up the good work guys.

Weather has been a bugger lately. I’ve spent the last few months waiting for her indoors to leave me alone so that I can empty, then re-organise my garage…. No chance. Maybe this weekend.

Anyway, ride safe.

Gary in sunny Berkshire
1987 & 1997 – Elefant 750

We got back in the garage last night and can promise some new episodes soon. The absolutely freezing and miserable winter here did curtail things but we are getting back into action. STICK WITH US!

Hernán
Chivilcoy. Bs. As.
Argentina

Translated:

Hello friends!!!!!
Thanks for the video. Excellent. What was missing in my Africa Twin’99, through Garagenight I can do it directly. Congratulations good job.

Hernán

Keep up the good work, lads!

Fantastic site, some great info and video too, any chance yez could do a night on valves and balancing carbs .. keep up the brilliant work …. CHEERS ..GER.

Thanks,
Brian

Thanks for the new episode. Great job as usual explaining the complicated to the clueless! Not ready to pull out the angle grinder myself yet but glad to see how it can be done.

I Think you should have your own show on TV! Well done guys.

Do you take requests? As you travel with bikes overseas – could you once show how your bikes are prepared for transportation?

One lighting suggestions – sometimes the camera films details underneath the bike and the ambient light is not enough. A small on-camera light would greatly help in those situations.

Once again, congrats on this excellent idea!

Really enjoying the shows. Keep up the work, it’s really useful. Why not add a Paypal donation button so us readers can donate a few bob, at least pay for some beers for all the effort you guys are putting into this.

Well impressed with the workshop you have there – my bike always lived outside in London.

So what big adventures are you prepping the bikes for?

Thanks for the videos – have just removed a steering head race – after watching #5. It seems to be the best resource on the net for this particular job.

The one I had (from a ’92 900ss) needed a visit from Mr Dremel, and a tap from the chisel in the cut – broke through one side, no more tension & off it came.

Keep up the good work!

James.

In two minds here because the Monster is probably my favourite bike of all time.

However I would have to say that the Fireblade was the bike of the 90s for me. I remember the huge impact it made when it was released in 1992, as it was so different from all other sportsbikes of the time. I think it was 20kg lighter than the 750s of the period, let alone the litre bikes. The journos of the time were just about wetting themselves.

Not only was it a huge step forward for sportsbikes, it has been hugely influential, you only need to look at the current market to see that. It basically changed the whole philosophy of sportsbike manufacturing.

Oh, and the GPZ900 for bike of the 80s, just ahead of the GSX-R.

Keep it up – I’m looking forward to seeing more episodes!

Col.

Just wanted to say great job on the videos. I am really enjoying them and picking up a few pointers as well. Keep up the good work.

Regards from Western Canada!

Steve

Thanks for taking the time to makes these, and keep ‘em coming!

Regards from Austria,
Lukas

yes, rear suspension linkage & swing arm bearings as you say ‘all-too-neglected part ‘

How about an ‘on location’ episode? you are welcome to come round and get that bottom linkage apart on my elefant, where it connects to the frame….

keep up the good work

andyP

Common!

John from the US

Top stuff!

Anyway, keep on keepin’ on!
Milt Lee
South Dakota, US of A

We dismantled the sandblasting gun and found it had sucked in a bit of plastic debris from when Pete was cutting up the box. We removed the blockage, reassembled the gun with thread tape on every join, and jacked up the pressure on the air compressor. I used it to strip the paint from my hub and it was fine, if a bit slow.

Seeing through the lid is a bit of a problem. Overall the thing is a success but needs refinement.

I have a question about the KTM front end swap for the F650 GS. Are you having custom triple trees made for the conversion? Do you expect there to be any serious geometry changes as a result of the swap? If so, how were you planning on dealing with it?

Keep up the good work!

The Iowa Cat Climber will form part of the trials bike course that we are building in the living room …

This being a living, breathing garage it is a ‘shared-use’ facility and we do have to clamber over a certain amount of domestic bric-a-brac to get to our bikes. But there are benefits: keep an eye out for the top half of a pet transport cage that is being used as an oil tray!

One question – In which episode will the Iowa Cat Climber be fitted to the KTM?