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Ep 5: Replacing steering head bearings

(15 posts) (4 voices)
  • Started 11 months ago by Waz
  • Latest reply from Waz

Tags:

  • bmw f650 gs
  • cagiva
  • change steering head bearings
  • ducati
  • ktm 950 adventure
  • long way down
  • long way round
  • motorcycle adventures
  • motorcycle repair
  • motorcycle travel
  • round the world
  1. Waz
    Key Master

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    It’s a key area of wear and tear on a bike, and especially a big trailie - so replacing the steering head bearings is one of the essential jobs you’ll have to come to grips with on a long trip, or just as a long-term owner. Pete’s KTM 950 came back from South America with knackered steering head bearings, and in this episode we show how to remove the worn-out ones, pack the new ones with grease and install them.

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    Most automotive and motorcycle bearings are in constant, full rotation during their life, so they wear evenly as they turn. But steering head bearings move very little when you’re riding - generally rotating just a few degrees side to side. This makes them particularly prone to uneven wear, especially if they are not kept properly adjusted.

    Think about it - you’re doing big miles, mostly in a straight line, over rough roads. Shock is transferred from the wheel, through the fork legs, via the triple clamps/yokes to the steering head bearings.
    Ep 5: Replacing steering head bearings

    Posted 11 months ago #
  2. guest
    Inactive

    Really good video.
    Was going to get a dealer to bankrupt me, but now have the confidence to give it a go myself.

    Keep up the good work

    User information
    • Author: DanH
    Posted 11 months ago #
  3. guest
    Inactive

    This video was really helpful when the bottom bearing on my KTM 950 SMR went tits up at 20K miles (days before leaving on a trip). The only difference I had was that the old lower bearing wouldn’t budge with a punch, so I resorted to a Dremel (cutting wheel too large to make a nice cut). A few whacks with a chisel managed to loosen it, not split it, and all went well from there. I picked up a tip to freeze the new races before installation to slightly shrink them.

    Your videos rock! Keep up the great work…

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    • Author: Garry
    Posted 10 months ago #
  4. guest
    Inactive

    [...] Re: Dommie forks and steering head Here’s something you might find useful: Ep 5: Replacing steering head bearings at Garage Night [...]

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    • Author: Dommie forks and steering head
    Posted 10 months ago #
  5. guest
    Inactive

    great site guys
    one small question i followed your video on replacing the bearings
    short ride and get major wobble on the bars at 60+ how do i now how tight to tighten top bolt i think mine might be to slack but dont want to over tighten and crush new bearings :(

    User information
    • Author: punisher_uk
    Posted 9 months ago #
  6. Trent
    Member

    Hiya,

    If the bearings are too loose, you'll get a clunk sound or feel when you brake or hit a bump.
    If the bike has a main stand, get it up on that then grab the bottoms of the forks - With the wheel facing forward, pull and push the forks back and forth - if the bearings are too loose, you should feel some movement.
    If you don't have a mainstand, try to prop the bike so the front wheel is off the ground.

    Perhaps you should loosen the bearings off again, then use the technique above to feel the "clunk" I mentioned - you can then gradually tighten the bearings until the clunk disappears.
    The nut / collar used for adjusting the bearings won't need much tweaking to tighten the bearings - try 1/8 of a turn at a time till you get the feel for it...
    It should just be "nipped up" when the bearings are at the right tension.

    When the clunk / movement has disappeared, you should be able to move the handlebars smoothly from side to side with the only resistance coming from the cables etc as they flex.

    Note that you'll also need to loosen the fork clamps on the top clamp when you adjust the bearings - if you don't you'll find that the bearings may loosen up again after a while.

    Cheers
    Trent

    Posted 9 months ago #
  7. punisher_uk
    Member

    ok to take this one step further
    after removing top yoke i proceeded to tighten the bearing cap maybe 1/8th of a turn
    replacing every thing i took the bike for a round 200k ride no high speed wobble
    but a low speed wondering lets say,anywhere between 30k and 60k the bike sort of sways under me as if gently moving bars from left to right
    after reading numerous forums i have decided to slacken them a little hear is why
    (sorry can not find post )
    apparently when i torque the yoke down (100nm) it will add pressure to the bearing cap
    something about the thread so its trial and eror
    i put bike on center stand and the bars do not fall when pushed but stay ther they are i think i need to slacken it about a 16th of a turn
    will let you no how it goes
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    Posted 9 months ago #
  8. guest
    Inactive

    Thanks guys, big help whilst I was doing this tooday.

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    • Author: oli
    Posted 6 months ago #
  9. guest
    Inactive

    [...] Replacing @ head bearings - idiots guide anywhere? Ep 5: Replacing steering head bearings at Garage Night has a step by step video [...]

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    • Author: Replacing @ head bearings - idiots guide anywhere?
    Posted 3 months ago #
  10. guest
    Inactive

    Superb videos etc.

    This is what I found helped me, in addition to what the video showed and other guys comments already on here -

    To get the bearing cups out of the frames headstock, clean out all the old grease, then spray some WD40 (or similar) inbetween the frame and the cups, then leave for 20 mins. Cut a length of the 4″ x 2″ wood to the correct length and put under the bottom of the headstock and the ground (this will give you a firm base to work against). Note how far in the bearings fit in the frame (2-3mm on my bike).
    Use a hair dryer (safe heat) to heat up the outside of the headstock around the point of the cup you’re going to take out (this should slightly expand the headstock).
    Then place the metal rod/bar inside the headstock so it touches the lip of the bottom cup (as per video), however rather than keeping it in line with the frame, lean it across so it’s resting on the top bearing cup on its opposite side. Now lean on the bar slightly so it forces it to push against the headstock at the point just above the bottom cup (this should stop it slipping off so easily). Now whilst still applying pressure on the bar as above, hit the bar with your heavy hammer. If you get a slight ringing it hasn’t moved, if you get a duller noise it has moved. Once it’s moving hit it at various places around the cup to get it to come out straight, otherwise you may damage the cups seat in the headstock.
    Repeat for the top cup.

    I found that using a longer rod on the bearings seemed to work better than a shorter length, not sure why, it just did :-)

    Keep up the superb work, Rob

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    • Author: Rob
    Posted 3 months ago #
  11. guest
    Inactive

    Thanks for the videos. I managed to change the steering head bearings on my cbr. Much appreciated by a broke student. Thanks again, Dan, New Zealand.

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    • Author: Dan
    Posted 2 months ago #
  12. guest
    Inactive

    excellent video great friendly guys keep up the great work thanks from scotland

    i did my steering head bearings on my honda xlr bike after watching your video it helped me out cheers mitch

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    • Author: mad mitch
    Posted 1 month ago #
  13. guest
    Inactive

    [...] Steering bearings google this http://www.garagenight.tv/ep-5-replacing-steering-head-bearings/ I put taper rollers in my @ today, easy job… spent more time removing fork guards, callipers, [...]

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    • Author: Steering bearings
    Posted 4 weeks ago #
  14. guest
    Inactive

    Great vids, very useful and well presented info. Did you ever refine the soda blaster? What pressure do you think is needed?

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    • Author: shano
    Posted 3 weeks ago #
  15. Waz
    Key Master

    Hi Shano. Haven’t used the soda blaster again as yet but am planning to try it out on my Ducati engine side covers. Cheers for the positive feedback mate.

    Posted 3 weeks ago #

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